GEMSTONE SETTINGS TYPES
Closed and Open Settings
There are two basic types of gemstone settings: open settings and closed settings. Open settings is those type of setting that allows light to enter through the bottom section of a faceted or transparent gemstone or the solitaire.
In a "closed setting", light enters the stone only from the top surface. This type of setting is appropriate for opaque gemstones or stones with highly refractive facets where light streaks through the crown and table of the stone and is reflected back to the observer from within.
Open Gem Setting Types
Prong Settings
The prong setting, is sometimes called a claw setting. Within the category of "open settings" or "à jour settings", prong setting is the most common with a variety for faceted gemstones with either 3 or 4 prongs that hold the stone firmly in place. This type of setting exposes maximum amount of light to the sides and pavilion of the stone. Prong settings are even more popular in setting engagement rings and other jewelry, but not all prong settings are alike. There are various options for this popular setting method.
The diamond or other gem is inserted into three or more metal prongs that form a basket- sort base. The ends of the prongs are then bent over and shaped wisely so that they rest against the crown, just past the stone's girdle, holding it firmly in place.
The visible prong ends are rounded often, but they can also be shaped into ovals, V-shapes, points, left flat or into some decorative shapes.
A prong setting can be short, with the stone resting closer to your finger or tall, perching the diamond well above the ring's band.
Traditional Height prong setting, Tall prong setting, 4-Prong Setting in Eternity Band, Pear Shaped, V-shaped, Gemstones Share Prongs in Common Prong Settings and Decorative prong settings.
Carré Settings
A Carré setting is one where the stone is set directly over a light streak and the stone is seated by raising or hammering the four spurs with a graver tool.
Tension Settings
A "tension setting" employs the metal's natural phenomenon to "spring" back to its original position to hold the stone in place. The metal is spread apart and the girdle of the stone is seated into small grooves in the inside surface of the metal. Special alloys of metal that are strong enough to create and withstand the necessary pressure to hold the stone firmly are used in this type of stone setting. Very hard stones such as a hardness of 9 to 10 mhos for diamonds, ruby, sapphires, CZ or moissanites can withstand tension setting as the method can exert up to 12,000 lbs. of pressure per square inch on the stone's girdle.
The tension-setting was developed in the 1960s by Professor Friedrich Becker in Vreden, Germany and metallurgist Steven Kretchmer of New York holds several recent patents for his advanced techniques in heat-treating alloys to increase strength and elasticity in this technique.
Frustum Settings
A Frustum setting is a conical or tapered setting constructed from sheet metal. It is also known as "Hollow Cone" Stone setting. The stone's pavilion rests against the inside of the cone. The outer edge of the cone's lip is bent over the girdle to hold the stone. A frustum setting can be open or closed type setting.
A frustum is a truncated tapered geometric form that intersects between two planes parallel with the base. When the form is constructed from sheet metal, it is hollow. The frustum setting often presents wider diameter upward to make the stone look more prominent. It should be noted that the width and depth of the setting is directly proportional to the size of the stone. On faceted stones, the depth is usually determined by the distance from the pavilion to the cutlet. For square or rectangle stones, frustum setting used is referred to as a "box setting". Such stone settings require the greatest amount of accuracy to make the form perfect.
In a closed-sided setting, the stone or the solitaire rests below the girdle and claws are added to secure the stone in place whereas on the contrary, in open-sided settings the claws are extended above the girdle and are folded over on the edge of the stone to hold it firmly in place. In both cases, the bottom is left open to admit light. The open-sided frustum setting tends to be more common because it has more surface for the light to fall on the stone.
Closed Gem Setting Types
Variations of the closed setting are the "bezel or gypsy setting, channel setting, cluster setting, Kundan setting, frustum setting, Pavé, and the seamless tube setting.
Bezel Settings
This is the most common type of stone setting employed in setting the solitaires and gemstones for engagement rings and necklaces. The word "Bezel", has been derived from a French word "Biseau". Diamonds and other gemstones are held in a bezel setting by a metal rim that encircles the sides of the stone and extends slightly above it. The rim or the collar of the metal is stretched around the gemstone's entire circumference and soldered to a metal base. The stone is then secured firmly by pushing and bending the bezel towards the stone using a burnishing tool that holds a diamond or the gemstone securely.
Channel Settings
Channel settings are primarily used to set faceted gemstones that are straight-sided, or quadrilateral or uniform in shape. This setting is mainly employed for baguette or princess cut diamonds, solitaires or gemstones. In a channel setting ring, multiple uniformly cut diamonds or gemstones are held in place – usually in a straight line around the entire circumference of the ring, enclosed by two parallel lines of metal. Step cut stones can rest on a channel track giving a "keystone" effect. Stones that are cut to a uniform size for use in channel settings are called calibré-cut. Channel Setting of gemstones is more prominent in Eternity Rings. Beware of ring size when choosing a channel diamond ring setting as it is difficult to resize channel diamond ring settings sometimes.
Pavé Settings
A Pavé Setting is tight grouping of identically sized stones laid across a flat or convex surface. Pavé Setting derived it’s name from French word "paved". The stones are held together in place using three to six raised beads per stone. Multiple small stones are set close together and very close to the surface of a jewelry piece, making it appear as the jewelry has been paved in gemstones. One classic use of the pave setting is in diamond jewelry, where multiple small diamonds shine altogether with brilliance in a pave setting. This type of setting is especially popular for rings and pendants. Jewelers employ a series of impressions in the metal which are used to seat the stones, and small beads or prongs are used to pin the stones in place. The goal is that least metal should be visible as possible, so that the brilliance of the stones can be clearly seen. The risk that the pave setting is accompanied with is that the stones are prone to fall out. It is not always the most stable way to hold gemstones. Apart from this there is a possibility for dirt too to get into the setting and obscure the brilliance of the stones. It is advisable to schedule a regular inspection and cleaning of a pave set piece of jewelry to ensure that the jewelry remains in good shape. The appearance of a pave setting is quite distinctive and it appears almost like the jewelry has been rolled in gemstones. Any gemstone can be rolled to pave setting, but one must ensure that the style of the setting allows the streak of light through the stone, so translucent stones like emeralds, rubies, diamonds, and topaz should be taken care before rolling to any for the setting types to maintain the grace of the gemstone.
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